Where it happens

Where it happens

The museum, the two juke joints, the festival and the cab that gets you between them.

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Delta Blues Museum

Mississippi's oldest music museum, in the 1918 freight depot. Muddy Waters' cabin, the Muddywood guitar, and an education programme that has been putting instruments in local children's hands for decades. Tickets, shop and click & collect.

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Ground Zero Blues Club

387 Delta Avenue, opened May 2001 by Morgan Freeman, Bill Luckett and Howard Stovall. Scribbled walls, music Wednesday to Saturday, seven lofts upstairs. This week's dates and the rooms.

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Red's Lounge

395 Sunflower Avenue, in the building where Ike Turner bought his first instruments. No website, no advance tickets, the hat goes round. The juke joint.

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Juke Joint Festival

Every April, the whole town becomes a venue. Passes and programme.

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Getting around

Ninety minutes of Highway 61 from Memphis, and no way across town at 2am unless somebody drives. Crossroad Cab.